Solution to my problems

[Poseidon]

[quote author=Brandon link=topic=3285.msg27417#msg27417 date=1349927849]
Would starting bio pellets be a good idea (e.g. help my situation)
and would starting gfo be a good idea. (e.g. '' '')

I think like pulp said  ..... sourcing out the cause of the high levels needs to be figured out first before you start to apply solutions to try and fix the problem. I would be adding the GFO as soon as possible and  carbon , still keep with the big water changes and a GOOD test kit and test often till you see that nitrates are dropping , if you dont keep the WC constant then your getting no where fast and wasting money while your at it. Adding pellets would be at a later time again like pulp said , when your levels are not drastically high it wont be such an impact on the system with lower levels .

If you change water today and wait 4 days before you do it again then the first WC was a waste becasue your levels are most liekly going to be back up in the higher PPM range where they were before you did the first water change . The changes would have to be big and often , Just my .2 cets HTH
[/quote]

how often of a water change are you recomending?? and how much?

 

[Poseidon]

thanks for all the advice though, i really appreciate it

 

[reeffreak]

you have 230g total volume ? Might not be an option for you but personally if this was my tank I would change half the water first thing same day I would add rowa or GFO whichever and carbon ... second day test see if you have dropped wait 3rd day do another 100 gallon water change 4th day test 5th day another water change . If you dont stay on top of the changes like I mentioned before your really not getting anywhere with having that much water to work with and just wasting salt . So until your ready to commit a whole week to WC and testing and $$ for some salt then I wouldnt bother doing water changes until your ready to commit everyday . 1 box of IO is 200 gallons you should be able to do some significant dropping replacing that much water but again I stress this big time ..... Until your ready to commit doing it everyday I wouldnt bother doing changes until then . HTH

every other day 100 gallons or more no more then half the total amount

 

[Salty Cracker]

So to summerize:

- Biopellets will definitely help reduce nitrates and phosphates. Just go slow adding them to a running setup.
- GFO will certainly help reduce phosphates. You can stock up on this right away without any real issues.
- A new skimmer will drastically help reduce nitrates when you have the money to upgrade. I suggest a Reef Octopus skimmer with a Bubble Blaster pump as they are not overly pricey but work very well. Plus, 3 year warranty on the pump.

Also, invest in some additional powerheads when you can. The Tunze is great. The 1050's not so great for that size tank. Add another Tunze when you have the chance. That will help prevent nutrient build-up on the sandbed and help reduce the cyano.

You're plan will definitely help BIG time though so definitely start with that.

All I can add to this good advice is:
Perhaps a wavemaker instead of powerheads, and make sure your lighting is up to par (enough lighting, replace bulbs etc).

 

[AdInfinitum]

Remember that the biopellets work by providing nutrients for a bacterial culture that also metabolize the nitrates and phosphates, but the those things are only exported from your system when the bacteria die and are removed from the system by your skimmer which need to be capable of handling the much increased load.

That's why the pellet reactor outlet is usually placed at the skimmer input.  I don't know if the pellets will improve your situation until you have a skimmer that can complete the cycle.  What happened to the big MRC skimmer that you had?

 

[Poseidon]

Remember that the biopellets work by providing nutrients for a bacterial culture that also metabolize the nitrates and phosphates, but the those things are only exported from your system when the bacteria die and are removed from the system by your skimmer which need to be capable of handling the much increased load.

That's why the pellet reactor outlet is usually placed at the skimmer input.  I don't know if the pellets will improve your situation until you have a skimmer that can complete the cycle.  What happened to the big MRC skimmer that you had?

was too big for my system... i sold/traded it to pulp.
If anyone knows anyone selling a good one for not a good price let me know.. i prefer and insump style

 

[Poseidon]

hey guys how bout this one?? the price tag isnt too bad and it will fit in my sump
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-octopus-nwb200-8-pinwheel-in-sump-protein-skimmer.html

 

[Salty Cracker]

I'm running that exact skimmer, works great and stinks less than Reeffreaks.  8)


***edit  nope I have this one, I couldn't fit the 8" into my sump. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-octopus-nwb150-6-pinwheel-in-sump-protein-skimmer.html

If I had room I'd go with the one you're looking at.

 

[Poseidon]

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/super-reef-xp2000space-saver-sro-xp2000sss.html
here is another one.. i know a guy who has one i can get for 250$...

 

[reeffreak]

im using reef octopus extreme 200  , it is stinky  oop: literally  and its a beast puts the vertex IN-100 I have on the frag tank to shame 

 

[Poseidon]

which one of those two would be better?
the xp2000sss is alot better skimmer, but its only rated for 180..
the nwb200 is rated for 250...

i can get both for the same price, so which one would better suit me?
im leaning towards the nwb200 because it doesnt have a depth? requirement and is rated for more.

 

[pulpfiction1]

i am a believer you cant over skim,some lean the other way

 

[Poseidon]

thanks pulp for that neutral statement
hope others will chime in.

 

[reeffreak]

It's really up to you ... You have sourced out 2 good skimmers now it's all up to what you think would suite your needs the best , either way you end up with a good skimme

 

[pulpfiction1]

thanks pulp for that neutral statement
hope others will chime in.

actually it was ment as a lean toward the higher rated skimmer,your tank i wouldnt settle for anything rated under 300 gallons,but thats just me.......

 

[Poseidon]

haha ok...
could someone describe what the depth thing means?

|
i have 28" to work with in my stand, both skimmers are 24"....
my water level runs at about 9 3/4"

 

[pulpfiction1]

you will need to remove the collection cup

 

[Poseidon]

you will need to remove the collection cup

well my coralife 220 is 24" tall as well... all i have to do is uncrew the ring and just slide it off... to me it looks like these skimmers are similar, but thats not what i meant...
even in the BRS photos its showing the skimmers have a  "water level line" what is that for?
the xp2000sss says 5.75 " is the optimal sump depth... but im clueless as to what that represents...
helP?

 

[reeffreak]

It means that the part of the sump that the skimmer is sitting in the water should only be 5.75 inches high or else the slimmer won't work properly and will overflow into the collection cup . So the baffles u make for the skimmer section should not be any higher then 5.75" high

 

[pulpfiction1]

to make the skimmer work optimal,some wont skim at all until the proper depth is reached,the tunze i have here that will handle over 300 gallons needs 9 inches into the water min to function

from the manual:

General aspects - Comline DOC Skimmer
The model series of the Comline DOC skimmers
has been developed especially for an effective
and modern protein skimming process in marine
biotopes from 200 to 2,000 litres (52 to 528 US
gal.). They stand out for their compact dimensions
at the same time ensuring a high foam cup capacity,
and producing a very high throughput on account of
their air capacity of 500, 650 or 1,300 l/h (132, 171
or 343 USgal./h), for example, depending on the
model. They can be placed directly in the aquarium
or in cabinet systems with a variable water level.
Marine aquariums produce waste substances,
whereby the quantity depends on the livestock and
the feeding. By means of an effective skimming
system, organic waste matter, the so-called DOCs
(Dissolved Organic Carbons), can be removed.
To mention but a few, these are substances such
as proteins, cellulose, dead cell substances from
bacteria and algae. In high concentration they
are harmful for any aquarium biotope. which
means that by removing proteins “before” bacterial
decomposition, crystal-clear water is retained and
a rise in nitrate and phosphate is reduced.
Généralités