RO/DI Questions

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Duke

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Sep 20, 2011
jerry_doucette link said:
Yea that is what I have now a T before DI. Can the DI stage be under that pressure when I am getting drinking water as there is still water flowing to the DI as the valve is on/off is on output.

Heres what I have. Wondering if I need a shut off valve before di just after the T to stop pressure from going into DI section.

There won't be any pressure the water will follow the path of least resistance, but I'd u close the drinking water line then yes water will start to flow into the di
 

Blob-79

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Tillsonburg
JordanHurst link said:
I tested the water coming out of the tap it was 119 ppm? therefor my 4 stages are doing nothing. I followed the tubing out again... tap water is Red in, 1st sediment, then carbon blocks, out of the third one around and up to the RO membrane then blue line comes out leading to the DI and the black waste line and flush valve lead off the RO as well...

I have no idea. Im taking the whole thing apart tonight.. somewhere the flow is leaking by

wish you lived closer, was thinking you lived in st thomas too, woulda stopped by if you did :p

Are you sure you have a ro membrane installed?  :?

I would definitly call up brs tomorrow
 

JordanHurst

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Nov 21, 2010
Location
Sarnia, Ontario
I took everything apart, I double checked the box for any extra membranes everything..
Im totally lost.. if the TDS is the same the tap water is skipping through or leaking past the 3 stages before the RO membrane... i made sure the seals are tight everything is lined up, the water runs inside the canister through the filter and out the top... Im lost haha
Its worse because of the 450 bucks spent at BRS this week nothing is working properly...
 

Duke

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Sep 20, 2011
somethings not right, even running tap water through just a carbon block filter and its going to drop the TDS considerably.

does this RO unit have a flush kit installed on it?
 

JordanHurst

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Nov 21, 2010
Location
Sarnia, Ontario
Blob-79 link said:
maybe take a picture of all the connections, so we can see to make sure its plumbed correctly

1) Red Line- From tap (119PPM) through ball valve and into the #1 canister shell (Sediment Filter)
2) Water flows hrough the sediment filter into the centre and out the top to the #2 canister shell (5 Micron CTO/2 Carbon Block)
3) Water flows through the carbon block to the centre and up and out into #3 canister shell (0.6 Micron +1 Carbon Block)
4) Water flows through the carbon block into the centre up and out of  the right end of the unit with red line
5) Red line from #3 canister leads up to the inlet of the RO Membrane (on left side of unit)
6) Waste line out of the top of the RO Membrane leads into restrictor valve with flush bypass to drain
7) blue clean water line out of bottom of the RO membrane which leads to the inlet of the DI canister where  the first TDS Meter reads (105-110 ppm)
8 ) Outlet of the DI canister with the #2 TDS Meter which reads 0.00 when the unit is running

Pressure runs at 65psi fully open, I tried fully open, then I tried 60psi, 50 psi and 45 psi to match Jerry's system, lowest TDS I have coming out of my RO system was 103 ppm.

Really appreciate everyone giving a thought to it, I'm ripping my hair out
Duke- maybe this week if you have a chance and wanted to see my system you could pop by, or I could come and see your tank and we could pop by here
 

JordanHurst

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Nov 21, 2010
Location
Sarnia, Ontario
Reid at BRS seems to think its a RO membrane issue. He sent out a new one today after a few hours of back and forth emailing to determine the issue.

Was actually nice to get something solved with BRS, excited to see whats gonna happen with my lights

Cheers
 

JordanHurst

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Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Location
Sarnia, Ontario
Well tried a new membrane... didnt work, so they sent me a new RO housing..this didnt help. SO this junk is going back to BRS Monday for "testing" and they will let me know what they determine...
3 weeks after buying this system still havent done a water change. Buying water at kern again... $$$$$$$$$
On the up side of things... UPS denied breaking my lights but.. BRS said they would cover it. I paid the extra $40 to have it shipped to my door.. not dealing with that crap again...

So now lets see how long it takes for my RO/DI to get "troubleshot" and "tested" by BRS. Aparently they wont send a new one, only return and test your current unit.
Pretty frustrating after 3 Trips to the states.
1) RO/DI Unit - $5 bucks pickup + $6 toll
2) RO Membrane - $5 pickup +$6 toll
3) RO housing -$5 pickup + $6 toll

Now got to send unit back to BRS- Box plus packing supplies $10

4) Go pick up new Unit - $5 pickup +$6 toll

Pretty pricy for not having anything correct so far..
 
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