Lots of Questions

[Giglio324]

so i recently purchased a new (to me anyway) tank. 80 Gallon 3 sides starfire glass 48x24x16, it is eurobraced and has dual corner overflows. it included a coralife 1090 external return pump and a tunze nano wavemaker.
Q1- can i add 1 of my MP40's with the wavemaker or will it screw up the oscillation?
Q2- do you need a check valve when using a external return pump?
Q3- what is my best plan of attack to transfer everything from my current tank to my new one, kicker here is that i want the new one to be in the same spot as the old one.
My thinking was to go one day full force transfer everything. Put new sand in the new tank and just bring a couple cups from the old tank to seed the new stuff. How muh cycle will this induce? and how susceptible am i to losses?
finally, with the new sump i have the space to hok my fragtank in to the system to make it all 1. how can i go about introducing the fragtank system to the new system. should i wait and do it after the move or all together?
thank you in advance for any insight you may have

 

[Poseidon]

so i recently purchased a new (to me anyway) tank. 80 Gallon 3 sides starfire glass 48x24x16, it is eurobraced and has dual corner overflows. it included a coralife 1090 external return pump and a tunze nano wavemaker.
Q1- can i add 1 of my MP40's with the wavemaker or will it screw up the oscillation?
Q2- do you need a check valve when using a external return pump?
Q3- what is my best plan of attack to transfer everything from my current tank to my new one, kicker here is that i want the new one to be in the same spot as the old one.
My thinking was to go one day full force transfer everything. Put new sand in the new tank and just bring a couple cups from the old tank to seed the new stuff. How muh cycle will this induce? and how susceptible am i to losses?
finally, with the new sump i have the space to hok my fragtank in to the system to make it all 1. how can i go about introducing the fragtank system to the new system. should i wait and do it after the move or all together?
thank you in advance for any insight you may have

I've done a full blown day move, rock sand water everything,
Take all the fish and coral out, put in buckets , put all the sand water and rock in new tank, let it settle for a bit, and then add coral and fish.
It's doable, but you do have to work efficiently and quickly.

And only ad water from the old tank that's clear and clean, no point stirring up all the detritus and adding that too lol, just ad some new saltwater in place.

I'm sure others will chime in, but I've done this before and I suffered very little to no losses.

 

[Petercar (RIP Dec 2017)]

so i recently purchased a new (to me anyway) tank. 80 Gallon 3 sides starfire glass 48x24x16, it is eurobraced and has dual corner overflows. it included a coralife 1090 external return pump and a tunze nano wavemaker.
Q1- can i add 1 of my MP40's with the wavemaker or will it screw up the oscillation?
Q2- do you need a check valve when using a external return pump?
Q3- what is my best plan of attack to transfer everything from my current tank to my new one, kicker here is that i want the new one to be in the same spot as the old one.
My thinking was to go one day full force transfer everything. Put new sand in the new tank and just bring a couple cups from the old tank to seed the new stuff. How muh cycle will this induce? and how susceptible am i to losses?
finally, with the new sump i have the space to hok my fragtank in to the system to make it all 1. how can i go about introducing the fragtank system to the new system. should i wait and do it after the move or all together?
thank you in advance for any insight you may have

i can answer one question.  ..i  put my new tank in the same spot as old one.    so i got lots of 5 gallon pails.    so yur not stacking rock with corals on top of other rock.      so just get one 5 gallon pails for each rock. fill ot with water. and sone fish.  ..and got. 35 gallon garbage pail  to.  amd put rest of water in. but have half new saltwater made  then slide the old stand out and slode new one in.  and put new sand in and rip the sand bag and put on top of sand when yr filling it

 

[Jewel]

I've done a few full tank moves and what I've done is get some plastic bins, You can buy them, then take them back when your done, or if you know of people who have them, borrow them, Put your old water in the bins with heaters and a power head and transfer everything to the bins. Try and minimize the stress on the fish. Either cover one bin with fish in it or seperate them if you have a lot but put that aside til you have the other tank set-up, New sand is a must, And work quickly, have in your case 50 gallons of new saltwater made up ahead of time and the temp is important, Don't add any fish or Coral until your temp and S.G. is the same. Maybe even add the fish the next day. You might lose some, you might not. Because you are putting it in the same spot it's always a gamble when you have to work fast.  You don't need a check valve for an external pump but they are always nice to have.

 

[curiousphil]

As for the MP-40 and wavebox question - I can chime in on that.... in my system I am running a wavebox and 2 powerheads, a Koralia 1150 and a WP-25 on random mode.  I still get a great wave from the wavebox with the addition of lots of surface ripple which makes makes for some really cool shimmer from my LEDs.  I'm pretty pleased with the effect of combining the wavebox with a random mode pump.  Also adds a nice random element to the coral sways instead of just back and forth.

 

[Jewel]

The more flow the better. Can't go wrong with good flow.

 

[Duke]

you dont have to worry about check valves on the return, in fact its better to not have one, that setup looked to have plenty of room for backflow, what you need to remember is that the amount of water that will flow back into the sump is dependant on how close to the surface you have your returns going into the tank, if you had them half way down, it would drain 1/2 the tank, and if you have them only 1" below the waterline.. its only going to backflow 1" worth of water into the sump.

 

[Poseidon]

you dont have to worry about check valves on the return, in fact its better to not have one, that setup looked to have plenty of room for backflow, what you need to remember is that the amount of water that will flow back into the sump is dependant on how close to the surface you have your returns going into the tank, if you had them half way down, it would drain 1/2 the tank, and if you have them only 1\" below the waterline.. its only going to backflow 1\" worth of water into the sump.

true, but you can just drill tiny holes at the water level that act as a siphon break, i do this to all my returns

 

[Duke]

[quote author=Duke link=topic=6828.msg67923#msg67923 date=1384371733]
you dont have to worry about check valves on the return, in fact its better to not have one, that setup looked to have plenty of room for backflow, what you need to remember is that the amount of water that will flow back into the sump is dependant on how close to the surface you have your returns going into the tank, if you had them half way down, it would drain 1/2 the tank, and if you have them only 1\" below the waterline.. its only going to backflow 1\" worth of water into the sump.

true, but you can just drill tiny holes at the water level that act as a siphon break, i do this to all my returns
[/quote]

U can but a tiny hole will get plugged with algae one day, I go for risk free.

 

[Poseidon]

[quote author=Poseidon link=topic=6828.msg67924#msg67924 date=1384372218]
[quote author=Duke link=topic=6828.msg67923#msg67923 date=1384371733]
you dont have to worry about check valves on the return, in fact its better to not have one, that setup looked to have plenty of room for backflow, what you need to remember is that the amount of water that will flow back into the sump is dependant on how close to the surface you have your returns going into the tank, if you had them half way down, it would drain 1/2 the tank, and if you have them only 1\" below the waterline.. its only going to backflow 1\" worth of water into the sump.

true, but you can just drill tiny holes at the water level that act as a siphon break, i do this to all my returns
[/quote]

U can but a tiny hole will get plugged with algae one day, I go for risk free.
[/quote]

Then drill a medium
Hole
Lol, even if it's just below the water line,
Not going to make a mess or cause any issues, and if water is constantly blowing out of it it's not gonna get clogged to easily

 

[Duke]

[quote author=Duke link=topic=6828.msg67925#msg67925 date=1384372635]
[quote author=Poseidon link=topic=6828.msg67924#msg67924 date=1384372218]
[quote author=Duke link=topic=6828.msg67923#msg67923 date=1384371733]
you dont have to worry about check valves on the return, in fact its better to not have one, that setup looked to have plenty of room for backflow, what you need to remember is that the amount of water that will flow back into the sump is dependant on how close to the surface you have your returns going into the tank, if you had them half way down, it would drain 1/2 the tank, and if you have them only 1\" below the waterline.. its only going to backflow 1\" worth of water into the sump.

true, but you can just drill tiny holes at the water level that act as a siphon break, i do this to all my returns
[/quote]

U can but a tiny hole will get plugged with algae one day, I go for risk free.
[/quote]

Then drill a medium
Hole
Lol, even if it's just below the water line,
Not going to make a mess or cause any issues, and if water is constantly blowing out of it it's not gonna get clogged to easily
[/quote]

this is true, but ANY hole in lockline could still get plugged with algae, or a snail. the safest way is to keep your returns 1"- 2" from the surface and not rely on any holes. best practice would be to keep your returns at a level that its not going to overflow your sump regardless of a hole. my tanks in my living room which is on the main level of my house, i cant afford to have water on the floor. period. some guys get away with having only 1 drain but i have 3.. works good or failsafe is something i dont mess with myself.

 

[reeffreak]

Why not use them both ... Have the return line in tank at 1.5" and have a hole drilled half in above that, but kept below the water line. I don't see the problem with that. Double the safety.

 

[Giglio324]

the way the return is setup right now is the bulkhead comes out of the sump to the return where it goes up and gets split into 2 pipes and just dumps into the tank through 2 holes using bulkheads through the eurobrace. I would like to put a bend and a small piece of locline on it so it isnt just dumping down into the tank and it actually creates some flow. i was gonna put the check valve inside the sump at the bulkhead so it could be cleaned or removed if required. i think i would have enough room in the sump for probaly 25% of that tank but i dont wanna chance that god forbid something were to happen

 

[Giglio324]

Turns out the holes are already tapped

 

[Neopimp]

Then you are all set

 

[Jewel]

I too like the idea of having the emergency drain, My tank is in my living room as well. And I have a separate drain 1/2 inch below overflow just in case.