135 gallon built into the wall!

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
well the wife gave me an ultimatum...either move the tank, or get rid of it bc we need to make room for the new baby.  so after much planning and a trip to the lumber store i created a masterpiece once again!  Im gonna post pics i have on my phone... only messy thing in this build was mounting my halides...think im gonna fix it up a bit but for now it works...
 

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
pretty sure im going all LED in jan....halides are killin my eyes lol and my wallet....already have 36 leds so i think another 144 will put me hwere i wanna be....
 
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Zakk

Guest
That looks sweet.  The jackass contractor in me says you should have cut your studs up 1 3/4" more and run a header over the cutout for the tank.  I would worry about that part of the wall sagging without cripple studs (and with the moisture). 

It's not a supporting wall of course, and it's not a lot of weight, just a little fyi for the future.  Would have been less work than cutting all those little pieces of lumber and attaching them.  ;D
 
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phi delt reefer

Guest
Zakk link said:
That looks sweet.  The jackass contractor in me says you should have cut your studs up 1 3/4\" more and run a header over the cutout for the tank.  I would worry about that part of the wall sagging without cripple studs (and with the moisture). 

It's not a supporting wall of course, and it's not a lot of weight, just a little fyi for the future.  Would have been less work than cutting all those little pieces of lumber and attaching them.  ;D

i was going to say the same but i saw it wasnt a supporting wall. Then i remembered him saying something about being Polish so all the shortcuts made sense



;D
 
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Zakk

Guest
phi delt reefer link said:
[quote author=Zakk link=topic=1816.msg13613#msg13613 date=1325122816]
That looks sweet.  The jackass contractor in me says you should have cut your studs up 1 3/4\" more and run a header over the cutout for the tank.  I would worry about that part of the wall sagging without cripple studs (and with the moisture). 

It's not a supporting wall of course, and it's not a lot of weight, just a little fyi for the future.  Would have been less work than cutting all those little pieces of lumber and attaching them.  ;D

i was going to say the same but i saw it wasnt a supporting wall. Then i remembered him saying something about being Polish so all the shortcuts made sense



;D
[/quote]

To my credit, I didn't at all mention the electrical violations I saw....  ;D
I'm going to be named threadcrapping king after this. 
 

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
To those about the 1 3/4" cut for a whole header, I'll have you know a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 so the "polish in me" should have accounted for the additional 1.5" not 1.25" for a solid header however, being it a finished room with painted drywall on the other side if you are good enough with a reciprocating saw that u could not damage the finished part thus creating more work please enlighten me. And it being a non load bearing wall,  structural integrity beyond that of crossmembers 16" on center make no difference whatsoever to maintaining structure over a solid header. I've been doing this for a long long time.  As per electrical, all those concerned with improper wiring.... Every conduit connected to the wires you see are connected to gfci... Main one in the box and load of that one to kill my breaker in the event of moisture or water. I assure you I am to code. Pictures are deceiving.  I appreciate your concerns tho! Glad to know you are all on the ball!

Oh and moisture.... I stained the wood with a mohagany stain and finished it with two coats of polyeurathane clear so no moisture penetrates the wood :)
 

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
I totally wanted to go with a solid header but it was too hard to not damage the drywall. I bought cheap thin trim for the other side. If I went with a full header I wouldn't have covered the gap. One of those things U see as u go
 

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Thanks guys.... I like the feedback, it helps me learn for future builds. If I did do something wrong I wanna know. I'm extremely pleased with the overall build. Whisper quiet this time too
 
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Zakk

Guest
Krazykarl link said:
To those about the 1 3/4\" cut for a whole header, I'll have you know a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 so the \"polish in me\" should have accounted for the additional 1.5\" not 1.25\" for a solid header however, being it a finished room with painted drywall on the other side if you are good enough with a reciprocating saw that u could not damage the finished part thus creating more work please enlighten me. And it being a non load bearing wall,  structural integrity beyond that of crossmembers 16\" on center make no difference whatsoever to maintaining structure over a solid header. I've been doing this for a long long time.  As per electrical, all those concerned with improper wiring.... Every conduit connected to the wires you see are connected to gfci... Main one in the box and load of that one to kill my breaker in the event of moisture or water. I assure you I am to code. Pictures are deceiving.  I appreciate your concerns tho! Glad to know you are all on the ball!

Oh and moisture.... I stained the wood with a mohagany stain and finished it with two coats of polyeurathane clear so no moisture penetrates the wood :)

Didn't mean to set you off.  Actually, lumber can be 1.3" to 1.7" depending on quality, warpage, splits and swell.  I was giving a 'safe' figure.  As for cutting the stud without ruining the wall?  Slide a thin piece of steel back there and cut slow.  Lastly, if your electrical was never inspected, and I can tell that it wasn't, you are not to code at all (what you mean is that it's, in your opinion, safe).  In the unlikely event you have a large fire there, I --guarantee-- your insurance company will not cover it, citing 'unsafe installation'.  I was the guy hired to rebuild a very similar situation...the homeowner had to pay me because insurance refused, and dropped him.  In order to get insurance again, we had to expose a TON of wiring for the inspector.  Anything that may have been modded or altered.  I think the total bill on his repair was close to $100K and he fought and argued the whole time, with me and the inspectors.  The fire actually started in one of those adapters you screw into lightbulb sockets that allows you to plug an extension cord into it (NOBODY EVER USE THESE!!!), which had nothing to do with his wiring job (although there was at least 20 things that were wrong with it).

I like what you did, and honestly, I was just relaying a personal experience, not trying to rag on you. People think their wiring is 'good enough' and 'to code' until something happens and the insurance shafts you.  It happens all the time, and I mean ALL THE TIME.

Peace out, I don't ever criticize, I just like to share knowledge.  ;D
 
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Zakk

Guest
Krazykarl link said:
Thanks guys.... I like the feedback, it helps me learn for future builds. If I did do something wrong I wanna know. I'm extremely pleased with the overall build. Whisper quiet this time too

Notice I did say it looks great.  I think it turned out really well, and to be perfectly honest with you, I did one years ago and because it was through a supporting 2X6 wall (a nightmare to get the double 2X6 header into that!!), it ended up set back into a huge cutout, not nice and flush looking.  I'm not perfect by a long shot, ask anyone.  ;D
 

Krazykarl

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
I appreciate it. I honestly do. I wish I could have you next to me when doing this build it could save me a huge headache. Never thought of using a thin piece o steel... Kinda clever. If every one of my receptacles is gfi I'd like to think they would trip much like that of the ones in my bathroom. Good thing is there are only two receptacles On the adjacent wall. If you have any advice for me I'm all ears.
 
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