Calling All Bean Animal Experts

[pulpfiction1]

One of the main points about the bean system is that it doesn't require fine tuning and thus is flexible to some changes in flow.

every time i change the flow rate i have to fine tune my full syphon

 

[scubasteve]

I had no problem finding black bulkheads at the pool supply stores around town. They are a good source for a lot of the other fittings and valves you will need as well. I highly recommend ordering a gate valve rather than a ball valve to adjust your main siphon line. you will NOT find them anywhere around here though. I ordered mine from brs. They are expensive, but you will thank yourself when your not spending a half hour trying to fine tune the siphon with a ball valve. Your welcome to stop by and see how mine is setup if you like. Im in the sports world area.

Maybe i will have to pop by one of these days then

Pretty sure the place in Elmira has gate valves. Can't remember the name of it tho.


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Yep that they do but im not leaving cambridge...... one the joys of being a manager for a general contractor is i have suppliers not for the general public so anyone ever need anything they cant find let me know chances are i know where to get it or can find out really quick.... i also made my own acrylic glue since weldon is such a pain in the ass to get around here built my sump and sh tank with it works great and chemically is almost the exact same as weldon

 

[jeffopentax]

every time i change the flow rate i have to fine tune my full syphon

Roughly how big a flow change?

 

[pulpfiction1]

Seems to be no matter if I increase the flow I have to open the valve if I decrease if I have to close the valve

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[jeffopentax]

Probably a hundred different variables (pump gph, overflow design/setup, etc) that dictate whether or not a flow change would affect syphon. Mine stays stable while pump runs anywhere from 50-100%. I must've just got lucky.

 

[pulpfiction1]

So what you're telling me is if you increase your flow the syphon and does not back up and if you decrease it the siphon doesn't drain your overflow box.
If I decrease my flow my sump level rises and my overflow level drops to the point of my syphon sucking air and being noisy unless I slow the syphon down with the valve
When I increase my flow my sump level drops in my overflow Rises and will keep rising until I open the valve a bit

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[jeffopentax]

It definitely changes the level in the box, but not enough to disrupt the syphon or trickle. My syphon is about 1/2" from the bottom of my overflow, and my plumbing is 1". I use a mag 9, so it can handle my max flow (about 950gph i think). Like i said, if i choke it below 50%, then the box runneth dry.

 

[pulpfiction1]

I'm running a jebao 12000
With 1 inch plumbing and my downturned elbows are about 1 inch from the bottom of the overflow
I can run it wide open as well but then my trickle becomes quite noisy and in order to do so I have to open up my syphon a fair bit
I run my pump on the lowest I have to close my syphon to maintain a decent water level I have no issues I love the way it works

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[AdInfinitum]

There should be a fairly wide range of flow through which the trickle runs silently. The level in the box should be constant set by the level of the trickle pipe. Is your trickle vented properly like a durso or with a tube like the bean design?

 

[pulpfiction1]

its vented with a tube,a mag 9 at 4ft head would probably only be pushing 750gph max,i am running considerably more,my pump i run at the 3rd setting(85%)which is about 2700 gph,the lowest setting is 60% or about 1600 gph with head loss would still be well above1200 gph

 

[jeffopentax]

So what's the lowest gph you can run?

 

[TORX]

When you increase your gph return, your sump will drop as more water is in the DT overflowing into the overflow. Only so much water can go over the overflow at a time, you may not notice the rise in water level in your DT due to the large footprint of the DT. I run my Jebao DC12000 at 100% with a 1" drain. But my set up and plumbing is different. I also use my return to power a GFO and carbon reactor. The returns from there feed my water change tank and overflows right back into my return chamber of the sump.

 

[jeffopentax]

I was just pointing out a ball valve could work just fine...

 

[TORX]

I was just pointing out a ball valve could work just fine...

I use a ball valve as well

 

[jeffopentax]

I use a ball valve as well

More importantly, do you find you ever have to adjust it?

 

[TORX]

Haven't touched it since I set it. Well, except when I mess with things lol.

 

[pulpfiction1]

i dont have to adjust anymore,but like i said earlier with every change in flow i had to dial in the setup,im thinking with a lower flow ,such as yours,that a few hunded GPH one wouldnt have to adjust the syphon valve at all

 

[jeffopentax]

So bottom line is gate valve is by no means necessary. . After all, set and forget is one of the great benefits of beananimal.

 

[AdInfinitum]

i dont have to adjust anymore,but like i said earlier with every change in flow i had to dial in the setup,im thinking with a lower flow ,such as yours,that a few hunded GPH one wouldnt have to adjust the syphon valve at all

I think that's right on... My Bean is 1.5" so about quadruple the capacity of 1" so I'm never close to pushing the limits like yours is with your high flow pump.

 

[Bigfish]

I used a ball valve for mine as well as I was not able to locate a gate at the time when I was building my system, but if I were to do it over again now, I would use a gate for sure. I like the ease of being able to make small adjustments. I tried adding a gate valve near the end of the drain line in the sump area and just keeping the existing ball valve open, but I found it took way longer to purge all the air from the line so I went back to using the ball valve instead. So we can all agree the ball valve works, but a gate is ideal.