New 125

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Salty Cracker

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Okay, so the almost impossible happened.

I have a 125 with the dual overflows, the allglass one. I went away for a week and came back to a soaked floor and dark tank (tank sitter slacked after the first 4 or 5 days). Anyway, what happened never should have happened:

Overflow one runs past the sump light, and it's evidently been on long enough that algae had grown in it (clear pipe), and almost choked the flow. No problem, there's still overflow 2. Overflow 2 got blocked with a snail shell. A BIG one, that there is no way it could have gotten through the mesh on the overflow pipe. Took me 5 hours to find it in an elbow.

So because two overflows were badly restricted it trickled over the top of the tank, and eventually hit a pump power supply, which killed the GFCI and eventually all power to the tank. Kind of a total freak of nature happening that of course happened when I was away. Luckily, limited losses, but coral isn't super happy.


NEW BUILD:
Same tank, but no more leaks on the main floor so this is going downstairs. New sump that has a lot more space for water, and lines up with the overflows so no more elbows or long pipes....

Going to run 2 dedicated lines from the service panel, both on gfci's. One for the mains (apex etc) and a second for a backup set of return pump/heater/circ pump. That way if one fails I have the second. Right now I was using a huge UPS battery for the backup. Will run a pump for about 12 hours but not a heater, that drops it to 2 or 3 hours.

I figure if I set up the new tank I can slooooowly move sand/subrstrate etc from the old tank and get the two as close as possible in params. I'll use water change water from the main tank for the first while, and let it go through full cycles. I'm also going to start with a strip of T5's this time, and then bring the LEDs over. I want to work on the "non-led-lit" colour of the corals, and I think I need a couple of T5's to run for a while each day to help that.

The frame I have now is steel and rusted to hell, is there any good wood stand builds on here that you can point to? I know I've seen a couple of 2x6 builds but not sure if they were here or elsewhere. I think that's the route I'm going to go this time, and a hood that is mounted to the ceiling instead of just perched on the glass. It's been fine for 12 years, but still it must add stress to the whole setup.
 

Salty Cracker

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Thanks guys, as of now just a couple of coral losses, and more brown than when I left. On the plus side, he dumped fresh water into the tank when he saw the level was low (!!!), and that's where the loss was (where he poured it in). Lesson learned on getting a qualified tank sitter, AND assuming a build is bullet proof :)

Besides, to be honest, the tank is boring when it's cruising along... when you need to work on it, that's where the fun is at :)
 

thehvacman

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Hopefully everything else will recover for you. Some leasons are hard to learn... If it can happen, it will happen, and at the worst time. I had a similar overflow issue, thats why on my new build I was sure to install a 2" dry emergency drain, so it really can't overflow. Good luck
 

thehvacman

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A dry emergency drain is one that is slightly above the other drain, and stays dry. So if your main drain backs up there is another one ready to go. More money and more work for a drain that really never gets used. But it's a must unless your whole system sits over a floor drain.
 

Salty Cracker

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Wow what are the odds of both overflows plugging up, hopefully everything recovers.
That was
A dry emergency drain is one that is slightly above the other drain, and stays dry. So if your main drain backs up there is another one ready to go. More money and more work for a drain that really never gets used. But it's a must unless your whole system sits over a floor drain.

Ahh, so another bulkead hole entirely. I don't mind the idea, but I'm toying with just adding another float switch on the tip top of the tank, enough to activate if the water is even at the top of the overflows (algae can sometimes plug them up and water level rises), that is tied to the smaller return pump AND the email alarm (which I still have to get up and running again). Lastly, I'm going to add a camera to the tank canopy. Easier to keep tabs when I can see it :)
 

Salty Cracker

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Only Glenn can look at the bright side with this situation ;) . Way to go!
Sony Xperia Z3

Is what it is, the worst damage is the spot he poured fresh water directly on the coral (!!), so maybe it will recover who knows. Odd part is some of the coral tips were completely out of the water for 24 hours or more, and they didn't die. They must have a way of transporting water through the inner core or something in case of low tide, who knows. PRetty glad they can take care of themselves though.

Still remains to be seen if there isn't a crash on the horizon. So far it looks good but I know how finicky a tank can be.
 

dale

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Jan 24, 2012
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Sarnia, Ontario
+1 on third drain.. bean animal style, 1 full siphon, 1 trickle, 1 dry, dry 1 above sump water so you can hear if water is coming out and you have a problem , its the best for adjusting, noise, and accommodating flow variances , mine works great i can turn my flow up or down and i dont have to change a thing and it stays quiet..
 

zoomster

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Jan 2, 2014
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Port Rowan, Ontario
+1 on third drain.. bean animal style, 1 full siphon, 1 trickle, 1 dry, dry 1 above sump water so you can hear if water is coming out and you have a problem , its the best for adjusting, noise, and accommodating flow variances , mine works great i can turn my flow up or down and i dont have to change a thing and it stays quiet..
++1
The 3 drain bean animal is only setup I think I will ever use again. If set up properly it is Virtually bullet proof safety, "notifies" you of a drain blockage while still maintaining flow and dead silent running is the cherry on top!
 

Salty Cracker

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Yeah but where I'm putting the new tank I don't have much/any clearance against the back wall, and the right hand side will be plainly visible. I just don't have the space for the plumbing in back.
 
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