What would you get custom on a tank?

[Salty Cracker]

My current tank is ~8 years old, fresh off the truck from big al's.  I didn't do anything custom, although I wish I had different overflows...anyway, if you guys were doing it again, what would you do.  Let's say if we had a 180-200 gallons.  Starphire?  Kind of overflow? 

I now I don't like the great big dual overflow boxes, and for me I'd rather have a big, square tank like darryl's (why is it always darryl?) instead of a long deep tank with limited sand space.  I think I'd go with a central overflow or maybe one of those off the back ones....

Thoughts?

 

[TORX]

External over flows are the way to go IMO. Go for a coast to coast external beanie.

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk 2

 

[Salty Cracker]

I agree that the coast to coast gives you the most internal space, but there's the extra space it takes in back...if I'm looking at a big square tank, an extra few inches on back can be too much... plus can't those things sometimes be pretty noisy?

 

[davesolo29]

its not really any extra space needed on the back for an external overflow.  if you think about it, drilling at the back your plumbing still needs room.  whereas an external overflow you drill the bottom of the overflow.. may even take less room.
I would go external if i were to do it again.
As it is.. i need to find out if the back of my tank is tempered.  When i move im gonna change things up quite a bit on my tank.

 

[teebone110]

I like coast-to-coast overflows, but I don't think they work too well with wavemakers.

 

[Darryl_V]

I like a smaller external overflow myself.  No need for a huge overflow IMO.

If I would get another tank it would probably be 6'x32"x24".....maybe that is 220g?

 

[AdInfinitum]

The 30-36" depth (front to back) is a given...although if it's going to be against the wall, at 24 tall and 36 deep the back bottom is going to be a long way away if you needed to reach something, unless it's only 4' long (if you 're sticking to the 200 gal range) and you can go from the sides.

Semi coast to coast, ideally teeth machined into the top edge of the back panel 1/2 the length of the tank, centered (quieter due to lower flow at any given point allowing the water to run into the box rather than falling, a sloped panel can be added in the box as well) + BeAn system in an external box (well worth the few inches of extra room space...IMO)

Having had many glass tanks and two acrylic tanks (well one and a project), if money is no object  , I would always go acrylic for a large tank especially if you are using LEDs not halides and/or if you want to put it somewhere awkward to get to in your house.  Contrary to popular belief, they are easier to keep clean than glass because nothing, not even coralline can bond to it or etch into the surface like on glass. If/when you do scratch it (they all get scratched eventually) it is easily buffed out even with water in it.  Also, over the years my 200 gal has endured a number of major impacts (kids, buddy's with a few too many in their systems and golf clubs in their hands...) and they have all been "no big deal" and buff it out.

Anyway glass or acrylic...

Black or dark smoked back panel.

If it's glass euro-bracing (rimmed or rimless), unfortunately not an option with acrylic since the center brace is so key...but no salt creep in the corners, crank up the wavebox without worries, no brace blocking light right in the middle of the tank and always covered in salt and calcium.

 

[Salty Cracker]

Yeah that's a big tank.  I was thinking 6'x32"x18"  I figure I'd like to be able to do high-light sps even deeper down in the tank.  I know for sure I'd make a higher stand, one for more clearance underneath for a bigger sump, and also for ease of viewing.  Seems most stands are pretty low, I guess for sitting height.

 

[Darryl_V]

are you doing a DSB...cause that will take some of the height away.  Even if you arent I would go at least 20" high.  30 or 32"wide and 6ft long.

Anything close to those dimensions in starphire or acrylic is going to be NICE.

 

[Salty Cracker]

I don't know as if I would ever go acrylic, I know that's a big argument, but I've only -just- more or less figured out how to keep a glass tank unscratched.

I definitely agree that the cross braces are a pain.  There's 2 big dark strips in my tank, no matter how hard I try to angle the lights.


DSB- yeah, I'm a dsb fan, so that's a good point. 

I'm really going to have to think and rethink the overflow.  I like the idea of nothing in the tank, but just not familiar with the externals. 

6' of starphire and starphire on the sides would likely get pricey. 

 

[Salty Cracker]

The 30-36\" depth (front to back) is a given...although if it's going to be against the wall, at 24 tall and 36 deep the back bottom is going to be a long way away if you needed to reach something, unless it's only 4' long (if you 're sticking to the 200 gal range) and you can go from the sides.

Semi coast to coast, ideally teeth machined into the top edge of the back panel 1/2 the length of the tank, centered (quieter due to lower flow at any given point allowing the water to run into the box rather than falling, a sloped panel can be added in the box as well) + BeAn system in an external box (well worth the few inches of extra room space...IMO)

Having had many glass tanks and two acrylic tanks (well one and a project), if money is no object  , I would always go acrylic for a large tank especially if you are using LEDs not halides and/or if you want to put it somewhere awkward to get to in your house.  Contrary to popular belief, they are easier to keep clean than glass because nothing, not even coralline can bond to it or etch into the surface like on glass. If/when you do scratch it (they all get scratched eventually) it is easily buffed out even with water in it.  Also, over the years my 200 gal has endured a number of major impacts (kids, buddy's with a few too many in their systems and golf clubs in their hands...) and they have all been \"no big deal\" and buff it out.

Anyway glass or acrylic...

Black or dark smoked back panel.

If it's glass euro-bracing (rimmed or rimless), unfortunately not an option with acrylic since the center brace is so key...but no salt creep in the corners, crank up the wavebox without worries, no brace blocking light right in the middle of the tank and always covered in salt and calcium.

I'm 100% LED so it's an interesting thing to consider with the acrylic.  Does it not still yellow over time if I use UV bulbs??

 

[Big_Als_London]

The 30-36\" depth (front to back) is a given...although if it's going to be against the wall, at 24 tall and 36 deep the back bottom is going to be a long way away if you needed to reach something, unless it's only 4' long (if you 're sticking to the 200 gal range) and you can go from the sides.

Semi coast to coast, ideally teeth machined into the top edge of the back panel 1/2 the length of the tank, centered (quieter due to lower flow at any given point allowing the water to run into the box rather than falling, a sloped panel can be added in the box as well) + BeAn system in an external box (well worth the few inches of extra room space...IMO)

Having had many glass tanks and two acrylic tanks (well one and a project), if money is no object  , I would always go acrylic for a large tank especially if you are using LEDs not halides and/or if you want to put it somewhere awkward to get to in your house.  Contrary to popular belief, they are easier to keep clean than glass because nothing, not even coralline can bond to it or etch into the surface like on glass. If/when you do scratch it (they all get scratched eventually) it is easily buffed out even with water in it.  Also, over the years my 200 gal has endured a number of major impacts (kids, buddy's with a few too many in their systems and golf clubs in their hands...) and they have all been \"no big deal\" and buff it out.

Anyway glass or acrylic...

Black or dark smoked back panel.

If it's glass euro-bracing (rimmed or rimless), unfortunately not an option with acrylic since the center brace is so key...but no salt creep in the corners, crank up the wavebox without worries, no brace blocking light right in the middle of the tank and always covered in salt and calcium.

We actually did a custom Acryllic tank that was braced using acrylic so there was no shadowing.  We also had lids made so they fit perfectly so there was no splashing.  it was basically an acrylic box.

Now if I were to do a large tank it would be 6' x 3' x 2' (maybe taller if I was doing a dsb) with a centre overflow. If I had unlimited funds I would do a round pillar style aquarium about 4' in diameter and about 3' tall.

 

[Poseidon]

i would like a L tank... 6 ft long on either side, 30" front to back and 24" deep on a 40" stand.
1 internal overflow in the middle of the tank on one side of the L and one coast to coast on the other side ...
this is my dream tank
tank would be visible on 3 sides, sump in a separate room.

 

[Salty Cracker]

[quote author=AdInfinitum link=topic=3373.msg28526#msg28526 date=1351135261]
The 30-36\" depth (front to back) is a given...although if it's going to be against the wall, at 24 tall and 36 deep the back bottom is going to be a long way away if you needed to reach something, unless it's only 4' long (if you 're sticking to the 200 gal range) and you can go from the sides.

Semi coast to coast, ideally teeth machined into the top edge of the back panel 1/2 the length of the tank, centered (quieter due to lower flow at any given point allowing the water to run into the box rather than falling, a sloped panel can be added in the box as well) + BeAn system in an external box (well worth the few inches of extra room space...IMO)

Having had many glass tanks and two acrylic tanks (well one and a project), if money is no object  , I would always go acrylic for a large tank especially if you are using LEDs not halides and/or if you want to put it somewhere awkward to get to in your house.  Contrary to popular belief, they are easier to keep clean than glass because nothing, not even coralline can bond to it or etch into the surface like on glass. If/when you do scratch it (they all get scratched eventually) it is easily buffed out even with water in it.  Also, over the years my 200 gal has endured a number of major impacts (kids, buddy's with a few too many in their systems and golf clubs in their hands...) and they have all been \"no big deal\" and buff it out.

Anyway glass or acrylic...

Black or dark smoked back panel.

If it's glass euro-bracing (rimmed or rimless), unfortunately not an option with acrylic since the center brace is so key...but no salt creep in the corners, crank up the wavebox without worries, no brace blocking light right in the middle of the tank and always covered in salt and calcium.

We actually did a custom Acryllic tank that was braced using acrylic so there was no shadowing.  We also had lids made so they fit perfectly so there was no splashing.  it was basically an acrylic box.

Now if I were to do a large tank it would be 6' x 3' x 2' (maybe taller if I was doing a dsb) with a centre overflow. If I had unlimited funds I would do a round pillar style aquarium about 4' in diameter and about 3' tall.
[/quote]

haha it has to fit in my living room, that's a big tank.  Never even thought about a round tank

 

[Big_Als_London]

A round tank could be in your next bar then. Anyways I am off to the store to put some corals away. its going to be a lte night.

 

[Petercar (RIP Dec 2017)]

My custom was made at miracles......half inch glass polished edges.  Rimless , external coast to coast overflow. The tank is a 36x24x18 , front panel is starphire glass  black back panel ,with a black acrylic pamel that slides up and down.  It has teeth  the black acrylic hides the pipeing in the external box that is 24 inchs long

 

[spyd]

Bank on anywhere from $10 to $12 per gallon for a 3 sided Starphyre custom tank. I like the 6" length as it gives a lot of real estate for your livestock. As Darryl noted, a depth of 30" - 32" would be awesome. You have the opportunity then to allow so much more depth to your coral placements. Euro bracing is a nice feature as it gives off a nice rimless look.

I would definitely go with an external overflow. It gives you a lot more space in your tank and prevents any chance of fish, snails, going into your overflow and causing problems. Bean animal or Herbie are the only two ways to go. With an external overflow you really don't need to go Bean Animal as the chances of 2 drain lines being clogged is all most non-existant. Now, if you had an internal overflow, I would go Bean Animal as snails, fish, etc. have a chance of entering the drains and potentially clogging them. If going with an external overflow, just make sure you can fit the tank through your doorway as it will add an additional 6" depth on the back of your tank.

I wouldn't go coast-to-coast. There is very little benefit. I would go with whatever size they suggest to move the appropriate amount of water. This keeps your water level in the tank as high as possible. The only time I would go coast-to-coast is if you were using one side of your tank as the overflow like in a Peninsula type build. Have 2 return lines drilled in the back wall of the tank for a nice clean look. Just make sure they are not too close to the side panes if you want to run a Wavebox... I screwed that up in my design....

As for depth. I would go 22" if running a SSB and 24" - 26" if running a DSB. I find a 20" reach to the bottom is fine. Any further and it gets hard. It would still be tough to reach to the back, middle of a 6ft x 32" deep tank but it is definitely possible with the right rock work setup.

 

[Duke]

im very happy with my acrylic tank, its easy to keep clean with a magic eraser every few days. its euro braced and since its clear it has no effect on my lighting, drilling all the holes yourself is a breeze as apposed to glass, and you can save some money there. I have a 2 foot external overflow which is silent. And the clarity is insane. I only wish is was about 3x the size, 6x3x2 would be my choice if I was living somewhere I was planning on staying.. you gotta think about how far 3 feet of depth is when you aquascape, your going to want some sort of slope or something with your aquascaping so you can see everything from the very back all the way to the front so 2ft depth would give you some more room to do that.

 

[Salty Cracker]

My concern with a 3' depth would be lighting.  To light the bottom you would have blinding light on the top.  A shallower tank has appeal to me although I would want at least 4" of substrate...

I may rethink the acrylic, there do seem to be some nice tanks out there.  Are there any stats on tank failure when it comes to glass vs acrylic, or would it mostly depend on build quality?

I really do have to do some reading on overflows.  The two I have work perfectly, no big animals end up in the sump and they're silent, but they tend to grow algae and they're too big in the tank.

 

[Duke]

sorry I meant 3ft wide, and 2 foot tall, shallow is where its at but you don't want too shallow so you can get some slope from the back to the front.