Rodi frustration

[Poseidon]

So I was having trouble with my Rodi unit not putting out 0 TDS.
So I changed out the membrane and the di stages on mar 26.
Less than a month later, all the di has colour changed and it's putting out 13 TDS again

( after membrane on the left, after di on the right)
It's actually HIGHER after the di stage (13) than it is after the ro membrane (10)....
Wtf is wrong with my system??
Could It be because the psi is maybe too low? I don't have a gauge so I really don't know.
Take me roughly 2 days to do the 120gallons.

Torx suggested It might be leaking through even when shut off so after I'm done using it I shut off the water source so nothing is going through the system.
And it runs every other week for about 120g -/+
....

Help?

 

[Neopimp]

Is the water flowing the right way

 

[unibob]

Have you cleaned the actual canisters at all? If you have what did you clean with, if you haven't trying cleaning them. Or let rodi water sit in them for a few days to see if they are leeching something??? No idea man. Got me confused and wondering how accurate the inline TDS from bulk reef is.

 

[reeffreak]

Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

 

[BIGSHOW]

Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

+1 this is a big mistake.  I suggest you take a look at the BRS "how to" videos.  Look for the one on packing DI resin.

You basically have water just making it's way around the DI resin (via path of least resistance)

 

[Poseidon]

Neo- HA!

Have you cleaned the actual canisters at all? If you have what did you clean with, if you haven't trying cleaning them. Or let rodi water sit in them for a few days to see if they are leeching something??? No idea man. Got me confused and wondering how accurate the inline TDS from bulk reef is.

I only changed the one di canister on the right out, took all the old beads out, washed it with normal tap water and hooked it up and it was giving zero for a bit.

And my hand held TDS meter says 10 TDS in my barrel as well.

But my make up water has 0.00 P04 so I'm not TOO worried. But still, I want 0 TDS. Lol

 

[Poseidon]

Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

The brown is the resin that already changed colour. The one on the right is half full of resin because that's all I had left.

 

[BIGSHOW]

[quote author=reeffreak link=topic=5192.msg1#msg1 date=1366555001]
Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

The brown is the resin that already changed colour. The one on the right is half full of resin because that's all I had left.
[/quote]

There still looks to be a half inch gap on the one that is suppose to be full.  IT NEEDS TO BE TIGHTLY PACKED

 

[Poseidon]

[quote author=reeffreak link=topic=5192.msg48934#msg48934 date=1366555001]
Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

+1 this is a big mistake.  I suggest you take a look at the BRS "how to" videos.  Look for the one on packing DI resin.

You basically have water just making it's way around the DI resin (via path of least resistance)
[/quote]

Doesn't explain why the TDS is higher after the resin ....

 

[reeffreak]

I would fill the canisters to where they need to be, don't worry about it all changing colour, it will do that, mine is all brown has been since the week after I added the new stuff, that doesn't mean it's all used up at all, I still read 0. The resin should last easy close to a year, some something is not right of your running it out in a month.

The barrel probably reads 10 cause its leeching.

 

[Poseidon]

[quote author=Poseidon link=topic=5192.msg48938#msg48938 date=1366555366]
[quote author=reeffreak link=topic=5192.msg1#msg1 date=1366555001]
Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

The brown is the resin that already changed colour. The one on the right is half full of resin because that's all I had left.
[/quote]

There still looks to be a half inch gap on the one that is suppose to be full.  IT NEEDS TO BE TIGHTLY PACKED
[/quote]

Ill order some more and do that then, didnt know it needed to be packed in... Never actually seen one packed full

 

[Poseidon]

I would fill the canisters to where they need to be, don't worry about it all changing colour, it will do that, mine is all brown has been since the week after I added the new stuff, that doesn't mean it's all used up at all, I still read 0. The resin should last easy close to a year, some something is not right of your running it out in a month.

The barrel probably reads 10 cause its leeching.

No barrel reads 10 cause that's what the filter is putting out...
It's a 70g food grade barrel purchased brand new for ro storage.

 

[reeffreak]

[quote author=BIGSHOW link=topic=5192.msg1#msg1 date=1366555232]
[quote author=reeffreak link=topic=5192.msg48934#msg48934 date=1366555001]
Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

+1 this is a big mistake.  I suggest you take a look at the BRS "how to" videos.  Look for the one on packing DI resin.

You basically have water just making it's way around the DI resin (via path of least resistance)
[/quote]

Doesn't explain why the TDS is higher after the resin ....
[/quote]

Sure it does. That means your di resin isn't keeping it all in, which also means its not doing its job, the water running around most likely picks up all the shit that somewhat got removed into the resin. Pack that SOB full and you will have no issue. The way it set up in that picture, you will not get 0tds from that

 

[Poseidon]

K I will pack it full and report back.

 

[reeffreak]

[quote author=BIGSHOW link=topic=5192.msg1#msg1 date=1366555431]
[quote author=Poseidon link=topic=5192.msg48938#msg48938 date=1366555366]
[quote author=reeffreak link=topic=5192.msg1#msg1 date=1366555001]
Those canisters only look a quarter filled with resin , what's up with that ?

The brown is the resin that already changed colour. The one on the right is half full of resin because that's all I had left.
[/quote]

There still looks to be a half inch gap on the one that is suppose to be full.  IT NEEDS TO BE TIGHTLY PACKED
[/quote]

Ill order some more and do that then, didnt know it needed to be packed in... Never actually seen one packed full
[/quote]

I'm not sure how BrS stuff works but the pack it comes in should be the exact amount you need to use.

Take our that half filled canister put that resin in the 3/4 filled canister and see what happens. But then that means you have a conister with nothing in it ..  So what are you missing in your rodi system? Do you have a sediment filter? And carbon block?

 

[Salty Cracker]

I'm guilty of this too, when I swapped out the BRS DI resin I had a fair bit left over after the first time, however it still gave me 0TDS for quite a while

I have the BRS inline meter, and it gives me 4TDS after the membrane and 0TDS before the DI, so I think it's crap.  I don't see a way to calibrate it either.

 

[reefin]

Hey Brandon, Do you have a pressure gauge on your RODI unit? You need to have a minimum 42 psi for the RO unit to function properly. You should have 50 psi for best efficiency. You may need to add a booster pump for your unit! You are on a well system and if your well pump doesn't switch on till your pressure tank drops to 30 psi then climbs to 50 and shuts off the pump you are not maintaining the min pressure to the membrane and this can cause premature failure on the membrane. Do you have any other pre filters coming from the water pressure system? Do you have a water softener? And you have already learned the DI canisters need to be packed full with resin.

 

[Poseidon]

Yea we have a water softener, and I have 2 micro filters and 2 carbon filters before the membrane

 

[reefin]

do you know the water pressure coming into your unit?

 

[Petercar (RIP Dec 2017)]

do you know the water pressure coming into your unit?

get the nuclear grade resin from royal aquariums  its not color changing  but one bag will full a changeable cartridge