Nitrate Tester

[RYOUNVS]

Is there a digital way or a more accurate way to test my nitrate/nitrite levels? I now that API 5 in 1 test strips. You know the ones that turn pink when you have high nitrates? It's just hard to differentiate between the numbers/levels. If there was a digital one it would be much easier to know exactly when a tank is cycled or when a WC is needed.

 

[TORX]

There is a Hanna Checker Nitrite Low Range Tester. Buying a RedSea test kit would work well as well and a little less cost. Truthfully, once your tank is established, you should never really need to test Nitrate/Nitrite.

I am sure there are a couple guys here who will pitch in about the cycle timelines, but spending the $$$ on hanna checkers may not be worth it unless you are going for a UL phosphate level.

 

[unibob]

There is a Hanna Checker Nitrite Low Range Tester. Buying a RedSea test kit would work well as well and a little less cost. Truthfully, once your tank is established, you should never really need to test Nitrate/Nitrite.

I am sure there are a couple guys here who will pitch in about the cycle timelines, but spending the $$$ on hanna checkers may not be worth it unless you are going for a UL phosphate level.

You don't hear about the nitrite checker probably because of the reason most people aren't testing for it like the others. Phosphate isn't the only good checker. The alk is hands down quickest and most accurate IMO.

 

[Neopimp]

Once cycled most people don't look at nitrite at all since it should be 0 after the cycle.    Nitrate is another test I don't run often since it doesn't change a lot for me. 

The Red Sea kits will serve your purposes fine.  But get the titration tests and not the strips.  Once you are into the hobby a while you will find that the main tests are alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium.  Those get more important when you have to start dosing additives I keep levels steady as they are being used up buy the corals. 

I would get a cheap nitrate nitrite ammonia kit for the cycling portion or startup.  And get a better quality kit for the others I mentioned. Once you notice that water changes do not keep levels up then it is time to strt dosing. Not sow thing you need to rush into

Phosphate becomes more important too as the tank matures and levels start to build. 

 

[Poseidon]

Love the Hanna alk, I find if you test 3 times in a row  you will get diff numbers .

 

[TORX]

To answer your question, yes there is a digital way, but it is not worth it. If you are just looking to see the cycle, then an API drop kit will work. From there, you will want to invest in some good kits such as Hanna (if you are rich enough), or RedSea kits...or basically anything other then the 'Master' Saltwater API kit. That API kit works well if you have a FOWLR tank, but no use with corals.

I also would not be using a kit to test for nitrate/nitrite levels when deciding to do water changes. That is only a fresh water rule. Corals need the nutrients and chemicals that are in the salt. As levels are depleted, they need to be replenished. You will most likely need at least 10% weekly water changes. Your water change regiment will only be known once your tank is up and running and you are testing for all levels. Every change you make from there may affect that regiment and as corals grow, it may change again. Some even go as far as setting up a dosing regiment as well to reintroduce some chemicals that are depleted even quicker then water changes and fix.

 

[RYOUNVS]

Huh... so after reading everyone's comments (Thank you btw!) I got to thinking 'I THINK I have a test kit that I got when I bought a package of stuff.

Here it is!:

 

[TORX]

Yup, that will do your for now and probably for a while. Once you start adding more and more corals, you will need to upgrade. This will  more then get you through the cycle though.

 

[RYOUNVS]

Ok, so I just did to NO2 test, and the water is clear, apparently there is no nitrite. So am I right in thinking that I can move my LR and fish over to this other aquarium?

What I have done, is had a 55 gallon that has been running for 8 months or so. I decided I was going to make my 120 gallon SW. So I transferred some LR and took half of my water from my 55 and put it in the 120. Then I filled the rest with RODI water. This was 2 weeks ago.

Is it possible that it's alright to move everything over?

 

[TORX]

Cycling your Tank

Did you see the ammonia spike by chance? Did you see the Nitrate spike? If so, you should be good. It can take days or weeks to cycle a tank. Maybe just at a hardy fish or two from your other tank and keep testing your water daily to see what happens. 

 

[RYOUNVS]

I have a friend who owns a LFS and he got out of saltwater, he gave me all of these, I have NO idea what these things are...

 

[TORX]

Interesting concoction. I do not use them, maybe someone else can chime in? Big rule of thumb though, do not dose it if you do not test for it. (made that mistake myself)

 

[spyd]

I wouldnt bother with any of that except maybe the magnesium as that is an essential element to maintain. The less stuff you dose, the more success you will have.

 

[Boga]

So, what would be the best Nitrate tester for the money if I want to upgrade from API (which did a decent job to this point )? I do not plan to do a lot of Nitrate testing, but once in a while ... we should. I see that few people use the Red Sea kit.

 

[Pistol]

I like the salifert kit.