In Wall Aquarium.

[reeferkeeper420]

So now that I've got my 140g tank sold I'll be moving on to my next build, an inwall 120g. All be doing the whole front in plaster "brick" looking wall. Only downside is the back of the tank won't be accessible because I'm putting the tank in a little pocket in my room. So I'm looking for tips on the best way to put it all together since I've never done an inwall aquarium. Things I should look out for or things I should consider. It's a acrylic standard 120. With a 5' sump underneath.

 

[Alexanneka]

I would make it so the whole front panel skin can be removed, using either Velcro, or wingnuts or some means of being able to remove the main panel. That way you can still access everything in the event you need to clean or if an emergency pops up. Would be a little different if you had back access but always best to have a contingency plan in the event something happens and you need in there.

 

[TORX]

I would assume that it is bottom drilled? I agree with above, the more you can remove the better. Make sure you have lots of room at the top to be able to reach up and in as well as see in the overflow for maintenance.

 

[Kyle1970]

I used high power magnets on my freshwater tank skin.
Adjustable feet on he bottom to keep things square. Then 2 countersunk magnets in each 3 foot piece.
Holds so tight you don’t want to get your fingers caught. Have to pull the bottom panels out to get ahold of the cover.
Should hold up the brick panels if you go that route.

 

[reeferkeeper420]

I would make it so the whole front panel skin can be removed, using either Velcro, or wingnuts or some means of being able to remove the main panel. That way you can still access everything in the event you need to clean or if an emergency pops up. Would be a little different if you had back access but always best to have a contingency plan in the event something happens and you need in there.

I would assume that it is bottom drilled? I agree with above, the more you can remove the better. Make sure you have lots of room at the top to be able to reach up and in as well as see in the overflow for maintenance.

I used high power magnets on my freshwater tank skin.
Adjustable feet on he bottom to keep things square. Then 2 countersunk magnets in each 3 foot piece.
Holds so tight you don’t want to get your fingers caught. Have to pull the bottom panels out to get ahold of the cover.
Should hold up the brick panels if you go that route.

Drilled in the bottom and back. Drilled for durso with one emergency and one return..I would like to drill another one so I can set up a trickle..but I also don't wanna crack something lol. Yeah I think I'm going to have the top doors on hydraulic hinges of some sort and make them big enough I can fit in lol.
And yeah the plan was to have the whole bottom removable via magnets or something.. haven't decided yet..

 

[Copperkills]

So now that I've got my 140g tank sold I'll be moving on to my next build, an inwall 120g. All be doing the whole front in plaster "brick" looking wall. Only downside is the back of the tank won't be accessible because I'm putting the tank in a little pocket in my room. So I'm looking for tips on the best way to put it all together since I've never done an inwall aquarium. Things I should look out for or things I should consider. It's a acrylic standard 120. With a 5' sump underneath.

This was my 65g in wall, its sits empty now.

 

[reeferkeeper420]

View attachment 16296

This was my 65g in wall, its sits empty now.

Looks awesome. Same look I'm going for except a natural grey stone probably to match my walls.