Eshopps M Weir Box Question

[Sasha T]

This has been a bit of a concern since I've had the new(er) system up and running. I used the drilling template to punch the back wall, but the water line in the DT runs higher than I had expected, ~3/4". It's not a problem in day to day, but as I'm doing water changes, feeding or maintenance inside the DT, I have to be careful not to move too quickly or I can easily splash out water. The drain box doesn't build up water at all, so it's draining fine but the amount that enters the interior box is so slow I need to substantially throttle back my return pump.

Has anyone ever had a similar situation with an Eshopps or similar overflow? Is there anything I can do to SAFELY modify the weir box? I've considered using my 3/4" hole saw to put holes in the sides of the weir, and I've considered using a dremel saw to extend the weir combs lower into the water, or making a narrow cut across the bottom between every other weir comb to create inverted π shapes, or using a J tube over the side of the weir box to pull in more water.

 

[waqas_01]

Can you take some pictures of the overflow setup - both inside and outside. If everything is set correctly, I would go for extending the weir combs lower. Go slow though, you don't want to break the weir.

 

[Mechano]

This has been a bit of a concern since I've had the new(er) system up and running. I used the drilling template to punch the back wall, but the water line in the DT runs higher than I had expected, ~3/4". It's not a problem in day to day, but as I'm doing water changes, feeding or maintenance inside the DT, I have to be careful not to move too quickly or I can easily splash out water. The drain box doesn't build up water at all, so it's draining fine but the amount that enters the interior box is so slow I need to substantially throttle back my return pump.

Has anyone ever had a similar situation with an Eshopps or similar overflow? Is there anything I can do to SAFELY modify the weir box? I've considered using my 3/4" hole saw to put holes in the sides of the weir, and I've considered using a dremel saw to extend the weir combs lower into the water, or making a narrow cut across the bottom between every other weir comb to create inverted π shapes, or using a J tube over the side of the weir box to pull in more water.

I think u have the right idea with the dremel. I questioned how high it would be on my older rimless tank and decided to lower it a bit because of that reason so I’d say mine is(was) around 1.25” below the rim and still needed to be careful when cleaning the glass in particular

 

[Sasha T]

I think u have the right idea with the dremel. I questioned how high it would be on my older rimless tank and decided to lower it a bit because of that reason so I’d say mine is(was) around 1.25” below the rim and still needed to be careful when cleaning the glass in particular

Sounds like if I had any experience before installing it I would have done the same. Some of my discomfort is coming from it being my first rimless tank, all my previous tanks minus my macro algae tank are rimmed.


Keep the judgement gentle for all the salt creep...

Drainage box and weir

Top Down

Intake with pump on

Water level with pump on and off

 

[Mechano]

Sounds like if I had any experience before installing it I would have done the same. Some of my discomfort is coming from it being my first rimless tank, all my previous tanks minus my macro algae tank are rimmed.


Keep the judgement gentle for all the salt creep...

Drainage box and weir
View attachment 25338

Top Down
View attachment 25343


Intake with pump on
View attachment 25340

Water level with pump on and off
View attachment 25341View attachment 25342

Yeah, all u can do is be careful at this point. Kinda sucks. But I think your dremel idea would work on the overflow weir and would help as that does look like some serious salt creep. Keep us posted. Maybe take a pic without your blue lights on afterwards. Easier to see the pics

 

[Sasha T]

Yeah, all u can do is be careful at this point. Kinda sucks. But I think your dremel idea would work on the overflow weir and would help as that does look like some serious salt creep. Keep us posted. Maybe take a pic without your blue lights on afterwards. Easier to see the pics

Any experience cutting hardened pvc plastic? It feels like if I have too harsh a disk or too course a grit then I have a good chance of completely shattering the front of the weir box.

 

[TORX]

I may be missing something, but that water level looks really low whether on or off. It looks like it was installed correctly as well. On my 120 DT with back rim my water level was high enough that you could rarely see it behind the trim. I personally never had any issue with splashing water out.

You could remove it and use a tool to lengthen the slots.

 

[Winks]

I have an Eshopps weir box that I installed on my 75 gallon tank. It sits just under the black rim of the tank and has the same effect as Torx with his. I have never had a problem in 43 years with this setup. I've attached a picture of the back of the tank as I was building it.

​

 

[Sasha T]

This system has a LOT of coralline algae growth on the glass, and none of the scrapers I've tried can make a dent without vigorously scrubbing away at it. That vigorous scrubbing ends up creating waves, which end up sending water over the edge. So I just bought a set of straight razor blades and those work very well, but of course I need my arm in the tank to use them. I imagine this is one of those situations where the simplest solution is the best: from now on I'll use a siphon hose to transfer some of the DT water down to the sump, lowering the water level while I work on the interior. (the female clownfish and her damsel buddies are also to blame, they peck at my arm/hand relentlessly and if they catch me between the fingers or on the soft part of my wrist, I twitch which sends water onto the floor)

I'm also a little worried about the braces for my lights being in the water and leeching out, but admittedly I did an ICP test a couple months ago and the aluminum and "dangerous" metal content was at zero.

I guess I'm just too used to having the black frame on the top of the aquarium to deflect water moving up the sides back to the middle of the tank, because my older (canister filter) system is filled to the same level (or higher) and splashed water has never been a concern.

 

[Winks]

while I work on the interior. (the female clownfish and her damsel buddies are also to blame, they peck at my arm/hand relentlessly and if they catch me between the fingers or on the soft part of my wrist, I twitch which sends water onto the floor)

I have a clown fish and friends that attack me when my arm is in my tank also. What I do is just stick a fish net in the tank with me. They all know what that is and stay clear of me. It works well.